How to install barrel roof tiles

When installing clay tiles, picking the right size, color and installation method, which depends on the type of clay tile, are important factors. Clay tiles work well on roofs with slopes greater than 20 degrees. As the slope increases, it enhances the aesthetics of the tile, making it ideal for cathedral-type roofs. Before starting, make sure that the surface is level; if it's not, apply mortar or a thin-set product to level the surface.

One of the most important considerations for installing clay tile is to have a great roofing underlay. The material used below the clay tile is a critical factor that will affect the tile's durability. Normally, the underlay is made from asphalt-saturated roofing material covering all area below the tile clay cover.

Ensure that it's properly attached or installed or you can end up with overlying tiles pretty quickly. Install an extra layer near the roof edge and in valleys to protect the surface even more. As a minimum, cover all decks with two layers of No. Choose clay tiles based on the climate of your geographic area as they are manufactured to withstand different environmental conditions.

The most common type of clay tiles include:. After installing the underlay, it's time to install the metal flashing around chimneys, conduits, vents and where the roof meets a vertical wall. A 28 gauge corrosion-resistant flashing is recommended. Follow these simple steps to install your clay tiles:. Use a medium consistency mortar so it's manageable and easy to apply. Install the mortar at the outer end of the first ridge tile, packing it under the outer edge of the tile to fill the gap at the tile and batten.

Smooth it with the trowel. Continue adding mortar along the lower edges of the ridge tiles at each side. Install mortar at the outer end of the tile at the opposite end of the ridge and apply enough where the ridge tiles meet at the center point of the ridge.

Place a key ridge tile at the center of the ridge and remove the excess mortar with the trowel. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great.

By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Determine the type of tile you want.

There are a number of different grades of tile to choose from, and you must identify the grade that fits the climate in which the building is situated. Just as vitally, you must determine whether you would prefer clay or concrete tiles various grades based on climatic conditions are available for both.

They differ in a number of ways, and so the choice is a significant one. While concrete roofing tiles are typically expected to survive years, in the right conditions a well made clay roof might be expected to last years. Though durable, clay tiles can be more expensive and neither option is particularly cheap. For any roof that you will likely have for multiple decades, this is certainly an issue to think about.

Consider the impact of weight. To put it in simplest terms, a basic asphalt shingle perhaps the most common roofing material in America will typically place a weight of less than 3 pounds per square foot on a roof.

Concrete tiles, which are usually lighter than clay tiles, can easily place over 10 pounds of weight per square foot on a roof. If you are adding tiles to a roof that did not previously have them, or to a design which did not originally incorporate them, the roof may not be capable of carrying the excess weight. In his case, you will need to have your roof inspected and possibly reinforced to bear the load. Make a list of necessary materials and tools.

While some of these are common--for example, it is recommended that you have a ladder--others are rather specific to this task and are items that are likely not yet in your inventory. For example: Gasket nails are a type of nail with an interior plastic cap that will help seal nail holes and prevent leaks. This is the water-resistant layer between the tiles and the roof frame and sheathing. A number of varieties are available, but because this is a roof intended to last from 30 to year, it is probably a good idea to invest in one of the heavy-duty options.

There are a number of caulks or sealants available for outdoor use, but once again it is recommended that you use especially durable and high quality products. This roof could last a lifetime, but it won't if the materials don't suit the requirements of the job.

Develop an estimate of the materials. The most important staring point comes from your roof dimensions. You can use this calculator to help you determine the size of your roof do not use the function titled "Tile Calculator," which is clearly intended for interior floor tile. Without specific information about the type of tile selected, it is impossible to estimate the number of tiles necessary to complete a job.

A square foot section of roof could require anywhere from 75 to tiles. Plan for a specific time. If you are going to replace the roof of an existing home, you must factor in the weather and the time you have available in which to complete this job. While it is obvious that you aren't going to want to rip your roof on during the winter, you must also look for dry days. Check the long-term weather reports with an understanding that forecasts do change. Also, make sure you have enough manpower available to complete this project in a timely manner.

This is not a one person job, and you will have to plan accordingly. Purchase the necessary materials and tools. While you are obtaining the materials, do consult with hardware store employees who may have special knowledge about the products. If customers have been complaining about a faulty product, they may have some knowledge about it. Part 2. Remove old roofing if applicable. This is, on its own, a major job that can take days and require special tools.

Be prepared to take the time to do this right. Repair and reinforce the roof if applicable. You should have reinforced the frame of the roof earlier before stripping any existing roof off. That said, the sheathing--the layer of wood or other material that covers the area between the relatively open frame and the outer layers of roofing--may be damaged or weak. Strengthen it. Again, think about the weight involved. The fairly cheap and common shingle roofs that many people have are quite light; if you are transitioning from a light roof to a tile roof, the weight difference will be substantial.

For a relatively average house with a 1, square foot roof, the total of underlayment and tiles will equal something approaching 8 tons in weight. That's more than the equivalent of having two large SUVs parked on top of your house. Install the underlayment. As you roll out the underlay, keep the bottom edge of the material aligned with the edge of the eave but above any metal or synthetic edging that may cover the borders of the eave.

Secure the underlayment. Roll out 10 foot 3 m -long sections at a time, and then secure it with nails separated by intervals of 24 inches. Keep all nails at least 2 inches from the edge of the roof. When you reach the end of the roof, cut the underlayment roll to match the edge.

Secure the end with nails. Restart at the end of the roof at which you first began. Overlap the underlayment, with the new layer partially covering that which was already applied.

There may be a series of lines along the roll of underlayment, and this is intended to show the installer precisely how much the layers should overlap. Treat the top line on the installed layer as you previously had the bottom edge of the eave.

Work around obstacles. Objects such as chimneys that project out from the roof will have to be sealed up as well. Metal flashing should be used around the chimney, and these should be sealed using caulk or other sealants specifically designed for outdoor use. Underlayment should be cut to fit around these obstacles, and then an additional layer of material spare slices of the underlayment material, for example should be placed over the areas where the flashing and underlayment meet and secured in place.

Part 3. Install battens if applicable. If the roof has a steep slope, battens may be required to hold the tiles in place. Battens are thin strips of material usually wood, but sometimes metal or plastic, and commonly 1 inch thick and 2 inches wide that run horizontally along the length of the roof. Many tile varieties possess a lip or hook that will hang on available battens.

Obviously this is one more thing to consider when identifying the tile that fits your needs In addition, clips are available to attach the tiles onto the batten. Use two tiles to determine the spacing required for the battens.

A minimum of a 3 inch overlap is required for the tiles that do not interlock interlocking tiles will take care of the measurement for you , and a smaller amount of overhang should be left over the eaves. Factor this in as you determine the locations of the battens. After you have determined the distance between the first two battens, measure the distance and set battens using that spacing all the way up, making sure to double check measurements as you go along.

Install the tiles.