Install satelite dish cable

Without an addendum, it might be hard to decide who is responsible for those costs. Additionally, tenants that want to get a specific cable TV connection installed may also need additional wires or hardware put into the house.

Sometimes, this means that internal walls will need to be opened and patched. While this can be allowed, the cost of repair is once again an issue. Finally, there is the issue of uninstallation. If the tenant wants to take their cable equipment such as a dish or box with them when they move, you will be left with damage and no hookup to show for it.

There is no question of whether or not you should allow renters to have TV installed; you are legally required to allow them to have some type of connection.

While you can legally restrict some specifics of this connection, such as where any external satellite dishes are placed, you cannot restrict the ability to get TV. Some reasonable restrictions that you can make include the following:. Satellite dishes, in particular, can seem like a big deal to a landlord at first. As long as you are clear about what you will and will not allow, however, having your tenant install one does not need to be a difficult affair.

After all, you would probably want to be able to watch TV on your own terms if you were staying there! As with most addendums, the best way to convey information between you, the tenant, and the legal system is to be as clear and concise as possible. This form is a great example of that mentality. Our forms always start with the same basic identifying information:. If you bought your dish from a TV service, for instance, you might have a hard time connecting to their competitor's satellites.

Tracking sites list the names, which usually include the owning company or the service they provide. If you bought a satellite service, it is possible to receive satellite signals outside that service. Since you usually need to replace several parts, it's easier to get a new satellite instead. Try to pick a satellite close to your area. If you subscribe to a particular TV service, you will need to use the company's satellites. The biggest providers have multiple satellites. Find the satellite's location before positioning the dish.

You're going to need to point the dish in the correct direction, then angle it up at the sky. This isn't easy to do if you don't know the satellite's positioning. Fortunately, satellites don't move much, so you can use a positioning database to adjust your dish.

The site will give you the precise positioning needed for your dish to receive the signal. You won't be able to receive a signal from a distant satellite.

Don't expect to reach a Chinese satellite if you're in North America, for instance. Use the azimuth number to rotate the satellite. Have a compass handy and locate true north first. Then, look at the azimuth number and find where that is on the compass. North is considered 0 degrees, east is 90 degrees, south is degrees, and west is degrees.

Rotate the satellite dish horizontally until it points in the correct direction. Then, turn the satellite southwest from there. Move the dish vertically to adjust its elevation. Once you know the height needed to reach the satellite, go behind the dish. Examine the end of the mount where it connects to the dish. You will see a bolt inside a slot labeled by degrees, usually 10 to Loosen the bolt by twisting it counterclockwise, then reposition the dish to the proper elevation.

Moving the bolt along the slot raises or lowers the dish. For instance, if the dish requires a degree elevation, it will point up into the sky almost as much as it possibly can. Slide the loosened bolt back toward the degree marker. Adjust the dish's polarization until you get a clear signal. The final part that needs to be adjusted is LNB, responsible for receiving and sending the signal into your home. It is usually an arm on the front that points toward the dish.

Test out the signal quality by hooking the dish up to the receiver and a TV, then loosen the connecting nut on the arm by turning it counterclockwise with a wrench. If the TV is far away, have someone else stand near it and give you feedback. You may need to wait to adjust the LNB until you're done with the wiring. Take care of it before then, if you're able, so you don't have to keep climbing on the roof to make adjustments. The LNB can sometimes be controlled by turning a mount part on the back of the dish left or right.

Part 4. Check your home first for a previously-used cable opening. The dish's cable needs its own little space to enter your home and hook up to your TV.

Unless your home is in the process of being built, drilling a single hole is the easiest way to do this. Position your TV and the satellite receiver nearby to prepare for the connection. It needs to be below the frost line, the lowest point that freezes in winter, which is about 3 in 7.

Run a coaxial cable from the LNB to the receiver. Make sure the receiver is positioned close to the satellite to ensure the cable can reach it. TV service providers will also give you one when you buy a satellite from them. The coaxial cable sometimes connects to the back of the satellite. Usually, though, it plugs directly into the LNB. Once the cord is in place, your TV will be able to receive the satellite signal. Turn on the TV to see if it works. The receiver may plug directly into the TV instead.

Consult a wiring guide for specific instructions on how to connect the satellite, receiver, and your TV. If you bought the satellite from a TV service provider, they would also provide a wiring guide.

Turn on the TV to test the signal. Press the satellite button if your remote has one or navigate to the settings menu. You should be able to get a picture right away. If the signal quality is poor, make sure you positioned the satellite dish correctly. We recommend you get up there and check exactly what stand off you need before ordering your bracket! Will the install be on the wall or the chimney as different brackets should be used for each?

Bear in mind that the Starlink, like any satellite dish, should be mounted as rigidly as possible, to minimise any movement caused by the wind. Thus the brackets pole you select should be of the heavy duty type and spaced appropriately where applicable , plus the pole should be of sufficient diameter and wall thickness to minimise any flexing, see article on " satellite poles ". An alternative to brackets with a large stand off is, of course, the cranked pole , and they can look neater.

However, in order to minimise movement of the Starlink installation, we would only recommend three cranked poles for it though the 1. If using a cranked pole, particularly a Supercrank, consideration should be given to using saddles with the V bolts not required with low profiles brackets as they have saddle type clamps. Other useful articles for installing Starlink : 1 - Which bracket for which pole length? Mounting Starlink onto a flat roof is easy because our heavy duty flat roof mounting kit's pole just happens to be the right internal diameter 40mm to sleeve a Starlink pole straight into!

However, with Starlink, the plug is already on the "power over ethernet" cable and therefore you have to drill a hole of sufficient size for that to pass through.

In fact the hole wants to be a bit bigger so as to ensure it gets through both walls relatively easily with the minimum chance of damage. We would recommend a hole at least 22mm in diameter, even bigger will make it easier to get the plug through but will obviously, err, leave a bigger hole. Whatever teh size of teh hole, we recommend filling it with silicone. Feed a welding rod or similar through the hole, and tape the Starlink cable to that, then pull it through as gently as possible.

The cable is about ft long Don't forget to install a "drip loop" , also see other tips when running cables. The fact is that the risk of lightning striking your house really is quite remote. More to the point, if your house does actually get struck by lightning it probably won't have been due to the Starlink being there, and the chances are that half your roof would get blown off anyway, so under those circumstances whether your Starlink has been damaged really would be the least of your worries…..

I would not have thought the lightning threat with Starlink is much different to that with TV aerials, so see lightning risk with TV aerials. Login Remember me. Lost your password? Dimensions of the Starlink supplied stub pole This is of great relevance if considering alternative methods of installing Starlink on a longer pole without using Starlink's pole adapter which is "sub optimal" in the design department, to put it mildly, let's just be honest about it , see section below.

DISH Using the azimuth and elevation angles, find a location for the satellite dish where it can be pointed towards the satellites located at these angles. Make sure nothing blocks the line of sight between the dish and the satellites. Mount the mast to a solid surface so that the dish antenna cannot move or be bumped out of alignment.

Never mount to a tree or a public utility pole. Align the top part of the mast so that it is absolutely vertical. If the top part of the mast is off vertical by only a few degrees, it will be difficult or maybe even impossible for you to find the satellites.

Take at least two readings with a level, on the upper mast, that are 90 degrees apart from one another. Loosen both skew bolts and set the skew by rotating the dish mounting bracket to align the mark with the required angle on the skew scale which you wrote above. Tighten the skew bolts securely. See Table 1 for the required torque values. After the skew is set, do not try to finetune the skew angle when aiming the dish. Grounding, other devices, and in-home cabling must also meet these requirements.

RG-6 coaxial cable rated for at least to MHz must be used in this installation. Do not use existing cables such as RG as it may cause signal loss.

Also, be sure that any outdoor connections are made using waterproof F-connectors rated for MHz or greater. The cable length between the DISH